The history behind famous designer jewellery brands

Renowned jewellery houses have dazzled the world with their artistry, craftsmanship, and iconic designs for centuries. As fashion trends shift and evolve over time, these luxury brands maintain their distinctive styles, making it easy to recognize a Cartier necklace from a Bvlgari one. From the regal elegance of Cartier to the bold innovations of Bvlgari, each brand carries a unique legacy that has shaped the fine jewellery industry. This blog explores the origins of some of the most prestigious names in luxury jewellery, such as Cartier, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Harry Winston. We delve into their signature styles, the innovations that distinguish them from one another, and the timeless pieces that have captivated royalty, celebrities, and discerning clients throughout history. Whether it’s Cartier’s Love bangle, Tiffany’s pioneering engagement ring setting, or Bvlgari’s bold Serpenti designs, these iconic creations are much more than adornments – they are symbols of artistry and heritage, standing the test of time in a world of ever-changing fashions.

Cartier

Often regarded as one of the most prestigious jewellery companies in the world, Cartier has become a leading figure in the fine jewellery world. Founded in Paris in 1847, Cartier now hosts over 200 stores and holds a brand value of $12.2 billion. Some of its notable designs include ‘Panther’ imagery which first appeared as a watch in 1914, then as a ring in 1935. Furthermore, the Love bangle has become a widely recognised emblem of Cartier’s designs. First produced in 1969, its simple and elegant design represents everlasting love as it is only removed by using a specific Cartier screwdriver. The brand's cultivating designs quickly became popular with the upper class and royalty, with King Edward VII referring to the brand as ‘The jeweller of Kings and the King of the jewellers.’ Nowadays, Cartier has retained its prestigious image, being associated with the likes of Kate Middleton and Megan Markle.

Tiffany

With its iconic Tiffany blue packaging, Tiffany & Co has become a well-known and respected name in the jewellery industry. Tiffany was founded in 1837 and gained popularity as a jeweller in the early 20th century. Having invented the ‘Tiffany setting,’ for engagement rings in 1886, the brand has become renowned for its diamond jewellery, yet has also manufactured items such as the United States Department of the Navy’s medal of honour, the ‘Tiffany Cross.’ Its wide variety of designs have proved ever popular and widely recognised, with examples such as the key pendant introduced in 2009 and the T bangle which made its debut in 2014. 

Bvlgari

Known for its bold designs and colourful gems, Bvlgari is another brand that has revolutionised the fine jewellery world. Bvlgari was founded in 1884 by a talented Greek silversmith, making it one of the oldest Italian jewellery houses. The brand quickly gained popularity in the Italian fashion scene, boasting colourful and unique designs which took inspiration from ancient Roman and Greek culture, incorporating coins and archaeological motifs into its pieces, most notably through its ‘Serpenti’ line. First introduced in 1948, ‘Serpenti’ pieces feature a snake motif wrapping around the wrist, representing both healing and destruction in Greek mythology. The brand has now ventured into producing clothing, leather goods, and even hotels, but it remains one of the key players in the fine jewellery world. 

Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef and Arpels is another famous maker of fine jewellery. Founded in 1896 by diamond cutter Alfred Van Cleef and his father-in-law Salomon Arpels, the brand has always prided itself on its use of high-quality materials and skilled craftsmanship, creating a luxury and exclusive feel. This brand's prestigious reputation led to it making the crown of Queen Nazli of Egypt in the 1930s and the crown of Empress Farah Pahlavi in Iran in 1967. More recently, the brand is probably most known for its clover design known as the ‘Alhambra’, featuring several variations using different materials and combinations. The unique designs have attracted a number of A-list celebrity clients, including Grace Kelly, Cameron Diaz, and influencer Molly-Mae Hague.

Harry Winston

Often referred to as the "King of Diamonds," Harry Winston is synonymous with luxury and prestige in the world of fine jewellery. Founded in New York City in 1932, Harry Winston quickly rose to prominence by acquiring some of the most famous diamonds in history, including the legendary Hope Diamond, which the brand later donated to the Smithsonian Institution in Washington D.C. Known for its unparalleled craftsmanship and use of the finest diamonds, Harry Winston’s jewellery and timepieces have graced royalty, celebrities, and dignitaries alike.

A hallmark of Harry Winston’s designs is the emphasis on the beauty of the stone itself, with minimal metalwork so that the gems take centre stage. One of the brand's most iconic creations is the "Winston Cluster," introduced in 1940. This design uses strategically placed diamonds of varying shapes to create a three-dimensional, blooming effect, a signature of the brand that remains popular today.

Harry Winston's enduring reputation for crafting exquisite engagement rings and red-carpet jewellery has made it a go-to choice for Hollywood stars, with A-list celebrities such as Jennifer Lopez and Meghan Markle having adorned Winston pieces at prestigious events. Though its founder passed away in 1978, the brand continues to be a global leader in high jewellery, operating boutiques in major cities worldwide and maintaining its legacy as a jeweller to the stars.

The rich history and distinctive designs of these prestigious jewellery houses have cemented their place not only as luxury items but also as valuable investments. From Cartier’s timeless creations to Harry Winston’s iconic diamonds, these pieces are often more than just jewellery – they represent artistry, heritage, and lasting value.

If you own a designer piece of jewellery or a luxury watch, it could hold significant worth. For more information on selling high-end jewellery, this article, What to know when selling luxury and designer jewellery and watches, and How to know if the jewellery that i inherited is worth anything, offers insight into the factors that can affect its value. PM Antiques and Collectables is experienced in purchasing a wide range of luxury pieces from top brands, so feel free to get in touch today to find out how much your designer jewellery could be worth.

Written by Krista Palmer-Preece of PM Antiques & Collectables